The story of jackets at IDA+S begins not in a design studio, but with a moment of resilience and reinvention. It was 1978. After a devastating accident at an industrial factory, The namesake of IDA+S, having lost two fingers, made a bold decision: she wasn’t going back. When asked what she wanted to do next, her answer was simple yet profound: “I want to make clothes.”

With no experience but plenty of determination, she and her husband started a small apparel factory. Early on, they noticed that no one in their Chinatown community was making jackets. When she asked why, the response was blunt: “Jackets are too technical. You won’t find skilled workers.” Instead of being discouraged, she saw it as a challenge and began training other immigrants, slowly building a team skilled in the art of jacket-making.

That commitment led them to become one of the largest high-end women’s jacket manufacturers on the East Coast, Lafayette 148.

From Clumsy Beginnings to Precision Craft

The first jackets they produced? “Terrible,” she admitted. But they didn’t stop. They brought in master pattern makers. They traveled to factories across Europe to study techniques. They treated jackets not as garments, but as a craft—one that had to be learned and honed over time.

One unexpected milestone? They were contracted to make dress uniforms for the U.S. Department of Defence. Although unfamiliar with the full set of military requirements, they created jackets that followed the spec measurements but not the traditional blueprint. The result? Garments that fit better, felt more comfortable, and looked sharper—proving once again that their expertise, even unorthodox, delivered superior results.

The Anatomy of a Well-Made Jacket

There’s a quiet complexity in jackets that only true makers understand. One small detail, like the shoulder seam, can reveal everything. From how smoothly the sleeve connects to the shoulder, to the invisible structure of shoulder pads, each element must be meticulously shaped and sewn.

A perfect shoulder doesn’t happen by accident. It requires thoughtful pattern design, expert cutting, and years of training on the sewing floor. In fact, at IDA+S, it typically takes three years for a sewer to graduate to the jacket-making floor.

Investing in People, Investing in Craft

At the heart of this story is a powerful belief: if someone wants to learn, we’ll invest in them. Technical excellence goes hand in hand with nurturing people.

That same ethos continues today—from developing custom shoulder pads to ensure the perfect balance of shape and softness, to choosing slower, more meticulous methods over high-speed shortcuts.

The Process

Fabric First
Before anything is cut or stitched, it starts with fabric.
Premium-quality textiles chosen for breathability, drape, and longevity. The kind that holds its shape, wears beautifully, and only gets better with age. Fabric that feels just as good as it looks.

It’s All in the Cut

The jacket’s shape is intentional.
A slightly structured shoulder for quiet definition. A nipped-in waist that flatters without clinging. Sleeves that hit just right. It’s tailored to follow the lines of the body while allowing you to move — to work, to stretch, to simply live.

The Art of Construction

This isn’t fast fashion. Every jacket is carefully constructed with the details that make a difference:
• Fully lined for smooth layering and structure
• Light shoulder padding to create shape without bulk
• Taped seams to maintain silhouette and prevent stretching over time
• Fusing through the front panels and collar — a hidden layer that gives the jacket its tailored form and helps it keep its polish through every wear and dry clean

Each step, from cut to finishing, is a quiet act of craftsmanship — a commitment to quality that’s been there from the very beginning.

Why It Lasts
These jackets were never designed to be fleeting.
They’re made to be worn now, and still loved ten years from now. A reflection of the woman who wears them: timeless, considered, and quietly confident.

Because at IDA+S, it’s never just about the garment. It’s the strength in our seams and stories that truly holds everything together.